Instructions

Life is full of wonders and here you have in the palm of your hand a little revolution. Using HoneyBee Bombs is something that can change the face of the face of the UK. You have in your hand your very own Prometheus. These bombs contain the early stages of an explosion of wild flowers and the support and rebuilding of the bee (and butterfly) population. With a little help from Mother Nature, something as small as a seedbomb has the potential to improve the natural structure of an area in one fell swoop.

HoneyBee Bombs are made in such a way that using them could not be easier. No indepth horticultural skills are needed. Although Wildflower Seed bombs can be thrown anywhere, they are slow growers and to give them the best chance they have a clear ground is best., if posible read and follow the instructions below to get the best out of your purchase.

Honeybee Bombs’ wildflower Seed bombs perform best in low nutrient soils, which haven’t been heavily fertilised in the past. The bombs work well overseeded into existing grassland, providing the sward comprises only fine leaved grasses and does not include ryegrass, agricultural species or weeds. Cut the grass as short as possible and thoroughly scarify or rake the ground to expose the soil and remove any thatch, moss and other debris from the area. Finish the seedbed by treading or lightly rolling the area, so that it is firm enough to stand on without leaving indentations. Remove weeds from the area before sowing. In areas where weeds are prevalent or in areas of high fertility, it may be more suitable to clear the area, remove the topsoil and sow into a prepared seedbed in the subsoil.

Sowing

HoneyBee Bombs are best sown between March and November. Spring and autumn provide ideal conditions as moisture and warmth are in good supply. If overseeding into grass, it is best to sow during autumn when grass growth has slowed down. Distribute the balls evenly if possible throughout the area being used. Once sown, ensure good ‘seed to soil’ contact by lightly raking or rolling the area. This encourages the seeds to fall down to the ground underneath. It is also possible to broadcast, or drill this mixture for larger areas. However, broadcast spreading throws heavier seeds further so this may impact the distribution and when drilling, the seed must not be buried deeper than 0.7cm.

First Year During the first year remove any weeds which grow before they run to seed, either by topping, mowing or by hand for smaller areas. Weed growth is common due to the action of disturbing the ground (rather than being caused by contaminated seed mixtures). Honeybee Bombs contains many perennial species, which can be slow to establish and are unlikely to flower in the first year, however the Annual species will generally flower in year one and provide more immediate colour. It is important to regularly remove the grass canopy in early spring and late autumn to allow the wildflowers to become established and compete with the grasses in the area. Cut the area down to around 10cm using a scythe, strimmer or mower, leaving the cuttings for up to a week before removing. This will allow them to dry and shed seeds back into the soil.

Second Year After twelve months the sward should be well established. Simply follow the same regular cutting pattern (in spring and autumn). If the weather is particularly mild or the grass growth is strong, additional cuttings may be required, however avoid doing so before or immediately after flowering to ensure best results. As an ongoing process, observe and remove any weeds which invade the area. Over time, some species within the mixture may become more dominant due to environmental factors and natural selection. To encourage diversity, simply reduce the number of dominant plants in order to restore the balance. In some areas with more dominant grasses, it may be necessary to overseed occasionally with the mixture to ensure the wildflowers remain competitive.